![]() ![]() Personally, I've never liked the standard crimp-ring hose clamps. Silicon tape may work as well - perhaps even better as it would fuse to the heater hose (I think)/ I might also try wrapping the end of the heater core pip with some teflon tape a number of times, then put on the hoses. ![]() Sounds like the hose may be leaking but not at the firewall?Īssuming the hose is leaking at the firewall, and the bulge at the end of the heater core pipe is bent/misformed (out of round), try re-shaping it with a oversize taper pin if you have one. You describe the deformation of the tube poking out of the firewall but the hose is leaking over the exhaust manifold - unless I am missing something I don't see how a leak at the firewall is dripping onto the exhaust manifold. I do not know why I hate it so much but I do. Little upset at my shop for this state of events. Worried I need to replace heater core, but I find no coolant leaking inside the cabin (yet). Fired it up yesterday, system came up to pressure and I was feeling good, turned around and it started leaking again. Replaced with worm drive clamps, got them as tight as I felt was reasonable. Pulled hoses, inspected tubes, found no obvious cracks or kinks. Tried spring clamps first but they leaked at the heater core. Installed hoses from a junkyard donor that I had in the garage. Also managed to bend one of the tubes during removal, so I gently bent it back into position. Noticed after removing that the heater core tubes were less than perfectly round, like somebody had been in there with pliers for some reason. those things were stuck on the heater core HARD. Attempts to tighten the worm drives did not work. I live too far from the shop now to take it back leaking coolant at that rate. The replacement hoses began leaking after a week, right over the exhaust manifold. Most of the clamps were worm drive type, a couple were original spring clamp style. They "could not find" OEM hoses, so the replacements they used had hose clamps at the heater core tubes (firewall), a pair of clamps attaching the rubber to the metal tube over the valve cover, and clamps at the engine block. At that time, the original heater hoses were on it but they had started seeping at the crimps, so the guys at the shop replaced the hoses at minimal cost (just parts) since they were in there anyway. The valve covers leaked so I took it back and had them replace the gaskets under warranty. Clamped with worm drive clamps.īackground is that the original motor dropped a valve seat and had a shop replace with a Jasper reman. AC problems are always best left to your professional mechanic.Replacement hoses are leaking at the clamps to the heater core. Never attempt to replace a hose that is connected to the air conditioner in your Grand Cherokee - these hoses contain refrigerant that is under pressure and can blind you. The video above shows you where coolant hoses and coolant reservoir on your 2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo are located and the steps needed to first minor leaks. In addition to looking for cracks, analyze the brittleness or squishiness of the hoses in your Grand Cherokee - if the hoses are hard to squeeze or squeeze very easily, it's time to replace them. In 2011 Grand Cherokees with the 3.6 liter engine, coolant leaks are most likely to occur where the hoses connect to the engine, but it can also leak from the reservoir or from the hoses. You can avoid getting stranded by identifying signs of extreme wear before they break and fixing minor leaks promptly. The hoses carry engine coolant (which is also known as antifreeze or anti-freeze) through your engine and will eventually wear out. The video above shows to fix minor leaks in the coolant hoses in your 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
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